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Fairy Wings
Fans / Umbrellas
Fur Stoles
Halloween Effects
Paper Punch Flowers
Parasol / Umbrella

Saddle Pattern

Sequins for buttons


Modern Bike
If you modern kid needs a modern bike, try Target. They have kid's bikes in the candy section of all places for $1.99 (it does come with some candy).
Sharon B

Bikes, etc.
I found the neatest little BMX bikes, the perfect size for a child doll at the dollar store. They were only $1 each... They had skateboards and scooters too but of course I noticed them after I was on my way out and had no time to go back...

My son likes a candy called Kindereggs ... they come with little toys inside.  Every once in a while he finds a little wooden trail engine or a metal soldier figurine (about 1.25 inch high) and he donates them to my accessory box...

Bikes & Accessories
I've found that Hallmark makes a line of tiny ornaments that work well as toys. Check out toys at Wal-Mart, especially the little skateboards with the tiny tools included.
Laurie Sisson

Fairy wings
There are so many ways of making fairy wings. I'll try and explain those I know work and look great.

Firstly, there are the butterfly wings, which are printed onto transparencies. I paint the back of the wings with white paint (or any other color that may look nice) to bring out the true colors, decorate them with sparkles (glitter) and gemstones, and cut them out.
Then I use a hot glue gun to glue the two together at the bottom. When it's cool, I bend the two wings towards each other so they will stand out at a nice angle. I hot glue them onto the back of the fairy.

The more difficult way, but much more effective, is to draw the wings on a piece board. Use wire to make the outline of the wings, starting at the inside bottom of the wing and leaving about 3" of wire to start. When you have bent the wire all around, twist the wires
together.  Cut off leaving about 3" or wire. The next part is difficult to explain, it needs to be demonstrated, but basically you cover the wire with a small piece of pantyhose, gather the excess at the bottom and tie with copper wire. You can then decorate the wings  with acrylic paints, glitter or whatever to make them beautiful. Make 2 of course.
Then you twist the two wing's wires together to join the wings at the bottom. To attach them to the fairy, I usually make a hole in the back of the fairy in the cleaning stage. When the doll is complete, you can just push the wire into the back and glue it into position.

I'm sure that there are many, many other ways of making fairy wings, so hopefully someone else with contribute their ideas too!
Cheryl C

Fan and Umbrellas
Resistors are making fantastic handles for the fans and umbrellas...

Making a Fan
I suggested earlier that you consider making a fan from gift wrap... but let's make one from a piece of lace that is approximately 1/2" to 3/4" wide and about 1" long.

Wet and then pleat the lace using your smallest pleater.  When dry, take a sewing stitch at the bottom of the lace to join all pleats together at the bottom. Tie off. 

Then lay the pleated piece onto a slab of Styrofoam (or similar) that's been covered with wax paper.  Pin (top and bottom) of each pleat to hold them in place.  Now hairspray with a strong hold spray.  When dry, turn over and repeat for other side.  Unpin when dry.

Make a handle.  This is how I did mine.  I cut a decorative toothpick to about 3/4" long.  Then I used a utility knife to split it all the way down... I now have 2 halves.  Once piece may be thicker than the next... split the thicker one again and discard the center section. 

Now spread glue down the cut side of one piece and lay it on top of the fan (flat side down.)  Then spread glue over the other half and lay it down the other side of the fan, matching up to the first piece.  Hold together a few moments until glue holds.  There will be a gap between the two pieces.  Fill in the gap with glue.

When glue dries, wrap and glue bunka around the handle starting at the bottom of the pleated piece and going down to just above the decorative part of the toothpick. This will cover the gap.

Now decorate as desired.  This is how I did mine.  I glued tiniest rosebuds (1/2" scale size) across the bottom of the fan.  I added a few tiny hole less gold beads tucked amongst the roses.  I also glued gold beads across the top part of the fan. I tied a gold cord around one of the grooves of the handle at the bottom.  Then I frayed the gold thread and let it hang down. 

It's ready now to be placed into the hand of your doll.  I'll send a picture of the finished project to the picture list.  I've put her with the doll so you can get some idea of the size in relation to the doll, although the fan (being in the foreground) looks a bit bigger in picture than in real life).

Cut out 2 matching fans, using a glue stick. Paste back to back; punch a teeny tiny hole in handle with a needle; trim with a tassel made from embroidery thread to match a color in the fan; go over one or more of the colors in the fan with a metallic gel pen and then touch up with a very thin coat of sparkle glue.

I found this description of a fan in a book I purchased and have put it on my 'to do one day' list.  This is taken from Queen Elizabeth I wardrobe list of the year 1600.
  Item: One fan of white feathers with a handle of gold having two snakes winding abut it, garnished with a ball of diamonds in the end, and a crown on each side with a pair of wings garnished with diamonds. And Item: One fan of different colors, the handle of gold with a bear and ragged staff on both sides and a looking glass on throne side. 
Yvonne N.Z.

If you have a scanner and a printer, you could scan a print or wrapping paper, reduce if needed and print out on fabric paper for printers. I've seen silk in this printer paper. Then you peel off the paper from the silk. Now I know you have to put some kind of "stuff" on the silk after printing  to set the ink. If you have a mini iron, you can then iron in the  folds. If you really want to get detail, carve down some toothpicks  for the "ribs" of the fan.

Fur Stole
I have taken old fur collars from coats and cut small strips of the fur....cutting from the back side, the leather side, carefully so as not to cut the fur itself. When cutting I have it come to a point at the front as well as what would be the tail end to make a neckpiece. I trim the fur for the end for the face area by clipping it short with small cuticle scissors. Your fur will look best if the lay of the fur is going towards the back. I line the back side with narrow silk ribbon and use bunka around the edges....keeping it to the under side of the fur piece. I cut tiny ears to match the fur color from thin leather or very fine felt....actually small triangular shaped pieces, and glue them "into" the fur for ear placement. I use tiny black beads for the eyes, and one a bit larger for the nose.  This can be draped over the shoulder of the doll, over a chair in a scene or trailing from her hand.

Another thing I like to use mod podge for is when you put a pair of glasses on a doll to use a very thin coat of mod podge, being careful of not creating bubble in the lens, dries crystal clear and looks good.

Make glasses by taking two strands of fine wire (the sort for jewelry or lace bobbins) I make a couple of twists in the centre and then place a thin dowel next to the twist. Twist again, enclosing the dowel and then do the same the other side. Next keep twisting tightly for an inch or so each end making an ornate wire bend to width of face and just past ears. Cut the wires and bend to slide behind ears.   Next dip the circles in tacky glue and it will dry clear or lenses or use clear dip it film.  You can experiment with shape e.g. square dowel or use round-ended pliers and tweak into desired shape.

I know you can paint them on with slip and fire them, but I don't always know until I start whether I want gloves or not, so I paint them on. I use "Puff Paint" that all the craft shops carry. It's not thick to paint, but is puffy. I works better than trying to put numerous coats of acrylic paint on.

I tape off the top of the arms to keep the line straight. I usually paint 2 light coats of Puff Paint and make brush strokes around the arms. I even let the strokes get heavier in the crook of the arm and at the wrist where the material would bunch a little. I let the strokes build up with the 2nd coat. I carefully remove the tape and the paint should be built up at the tape like and looks like where the glove ends. When I'm happy with the results, I apply a thin coat of matte medium and let it dry overnight. I do the same thing for shoes.
Ricki Pitzner

I learned that gloves can, indeed, be added to "after-mold" dolls. (I don't know the proper term.) Dorothy uses paper (you can also use fabric) that she gives several coats of acrylic paint.  This is just for the arm of the glove; the hand is just painted onto the doll's hand, and she adds a bracelet or watch at the wrist to hide the edge of the paper. Then she pushes the arm down toward the wrist to give it a few wrinkles and make it more glove looking. I found it to be very effective.

I learned the following method in a class with doll artist Dorothy Haw. We painted the hands, just to the wrists, the color of the gloves.  Then we painted fabric the same color, giving it several coats. From that, we cut out the sleeves of the gloves and glued them onto the doll. At the seam line where the gloves hit the wrist, we added bracelets to cover the seam.

My favored method is to take tiny strips of tissue (Puffs Plus) and saturate them in glue then wind them one by one around the hand pressing with a toothpick into all the crevices and sort of pulling and pushing the tissue into natural looking folds, bends, etc., and continuing it right up the arm to the length you wish. Two or three layers make a most realistic looking material or fabric. When it's dry it's permanently adhered to the hand/fingers/arms and can be painted any color you like. By rolling the tissue gently and building up the layers around the upper part of the glove, it gives the ends of the gloves a natural looking rounded cuff....... Paper towels just are way too thick, but tissues are just the right consistency.

Gloves using Slip

Yes, some of Stacy’s molds have gloves molded on them. (She has such beautiful molds) Also, you can take slip while arms are in greenware state and apply the slip with a thin brush to look like gloves.  Apply this slip fairly thickly. There are actually a few ways to do it. I  have applied whole glove and then grooved indentations out, or applied  “wrinkles” with the brush. Also, make sure that the slip is thick at the very top of the glove. I think another way of doing this could be to take a thin  strip of porcelain and apply to where you want the top of the glove to be. Do this before firing. If doing this way, you can paint gloves with white  porcelain. OR, after firing, just paint it with paint or nail polish.

Try as I might, I couldn't think of a single thing today that I thought might help the list dress their dolls. What about tomorrow? Alas, alack...I may be found to be lacking again. Horrors.

Anyway...even though I don't have a tip, I did find this great Halloween effects site for some of you that likes to put their dolls into scenes. It has a light beam trigger mechanism gizmo (at the bottom of the page), there's the dangling spider effect, homemade fog machine...this type of thing that I hope some will find helpful. Warning plays the theme to Beetlejuice.  I hope you find at least a little bit of use with this site.


Elizabethan Pearl Necklace
One thing I'm just thrilled about is that I figured out how to make a great pearl chain. You know those long pearl chains that are worn with Elizabethan dress-well I just wasn't happy the way it turned out just stringing them one pearl right after the other –soooo crazy me had this glorious idea to try and make a knot after each pearl just like the real ones. I did this for hours-believe me it doesn't work! Finally yesterday I had success. I took 1mm imitation pearl beads ( I got those from Empyrean beads)-they have a beautiful antique color and are nice and round. I alternated stringing those with a 22/0 or 24/0 ( forgot which size they are-they are tiny) antique gold color bead. The result was great. It now looks like there is a tiny space in between each pearl and the chain doesn't kink at all and hangs very nice-yeahhhh!!!

Modern Doll Jewelry
When working on modern dolls, don't be afraid to put extra jewelry on them.  It seems more and more people are wearing earrings and rings these days. For a very modern look, put a tiny no-hole bead on the upper ear to represent a cartilage piercing.

And don't forget Thumb rings and pinky rings, and natural beaded necklaces. This all works on the male dolls too!!

I have bought beads and rhinestones from Pam Kille at etcetera. Then I use whatever I can to get the tiny beads onto the dolls. Usually I squeeze out some glue (and I've started to use Tacky for everything) on to a piece of paper or foil ,then pick up the flat rhinestones or beads with my curved tweezers ,dip them into the glue and place them. For the real tiny, tiny beads like Dana used on her Desiree necklace use a straight pin to apply some glue where the beads will go, pick up the beads with the tip of a toothpick that I have wet on my tongue or a piece of thin spaghetti.  (Same thing there ,if wet on your tongue the starch makes it sticky enough to pick up the beads.) You really don't need much glue, it’s amazing how well it holds after it's completely dry ,specially if it is reinforced with a little clear nail polish to finish it up.

To make either gold or silver chains fro ladies take gold or silver lame fabric and unravel it strand by strand this makes real nice chains.

If you can't find fine chain anywhere else, try the railroad stores. They often have very fine chain, if so tiny that you can hardly tell it is a chain.
Bev in Colo

Bracelet – Wide bronze, lace like
You could start with sheet copper or brass from the hardware or hobby store. Some is so thin, you cut it with scissors, then you can emboss designs using a dull pencil or pen. I saw instructions for making a plaque by putting the thin metal over a coin and rubbing with a sharpened dowel; the design on the coin comes out in relief on the metal. This would work with other textured surfaces, too. You can glue on wire or narrow strips of the metal to build up the edges.  Get a bronze color by using a brown magic marker on the finished piece, and wiping it off the highlights right away.

Two things come to mind: use an actual piece of lace that is suitable by design for what you want, stiffen it with STIFFY or other stiffening solution and then, using one of the new metallic paints, paint it the color of Bronze that you like OR if you are handy with the round nose pliers use one of the findings like at Ben Franklin - they have metal bits and pieces to adorn small boxes etc. - you can use the bronze paint in the same way to get the color and heaviness of bronze.

You might try the embossing technique--place it over something hard (i.e., metal, not lace) with a design you like and rub with a wooden tool, THEN, while it's still on the form, use an Exact-o knife or pin tool to poke holes where you want them. If you can get a deep enough embossed design, you might just paint the whole thing dark, then wipe off the high spots; the darkness will look like holes.

I have the instructions on how to make one version of these on my website:

I did a Mardi Gras theme party for our school last year, and all the kids made the most incredible masks from brightly colored poster board. metallic trims, and those fancy shaped metallic sequins.  Just think small in this case.

Paper Punch/Flowers
If anyone is just starting out in flowers AC MOORES just got in $1.99 punches they may not last long for a pro but they will work well for a beginner or someone that just wants to make a few many leaves, flowers, butterflies, etc.
Parasol / Umbrellas
To make a parasol I would draw a circle the size of an open parasol, draw dividing lines (like cutting a cake) where the spokes would go. Then make a scalloped edge all around the circle. Glue this paper onto a piece of fabric and smooth. Cut the scalloped circle out, to make it less bulky I would remove several "slices of cake" then glue the cut edge back together. You can trim the edge with lace or what have you. Fold on the lines, with crease to the outside. Gently form the parasol into shape by pulling and rolling between fingers. Find a dowel the right thickness for your handle and paint and finish it to your liking. Punch a little hole in the pointy end of the parasol and push handle through the parasol body and out the hole to form the tip. coat the handle on the inside of parasol and gently roll the parasol around the dowel and let dry. I have made several in this manner and had very good results.

I use extra long cocktail sticks that I cut to the right size. Don't know if you have these overseas - they're used for sateh and are the same diameter as regular toothpicks but much longer.  I have also used steel wire, which is fun because you can bend the end to look like an umbrella/parasol handle. I glue a bead to the handle or make a handle out of Fimo. I have also used the little umbrellas that come with children's ice cream, and used electricity wire for the handle - I pulled out and cut off half of the wire and slid the hollow tube of insulation over the end of the umbrella stick. Then I bent the other half of the wire (the half that still has the copper wire inside) into a handle shape. Then I cover the ice cream umbrella with a piece of silk, or thin black paper (like rice paper or the kind you use for making your own kites). I like black because with other colors the 'ribs' of the kiddie umbrella really show, and they're not in scale. :-) I decorate with lace and ribbon, sometimes roses. I often use a bead on top, but sometimes when I use a pointy cocktail stick I paint the point in metallic and slide a little ring over it to cover the raw edge of the fabric... I like making closed ones with lace on the top and then crossing ribbon over it, starting at the edge of the lace and criss-crossing all to the way to the pointed end, then tie it with a bow. This looks like the bow is holding the parasol closed. It also hides the raw edge of the silk.  The other way around (starting at the tip and going down to the handle) works, too. :-) IMHO this looks nicest if the parasol is made out of thin silk because it 'bulges' between the ribbons... :-)  I've made them in all different sizes, I guess it depends on the dress I use them for. I don't have any pictures of dolls with parasols... :-(

I used to make an open umbrella this way: I'd cut a circle in card stock and divide it into 8 equal parts. I'd *score* all the lines with an X-Acto knife (breaking the surface but not cutting all the way through) so that they bend nicely. Cut away one or two wedges of the circle, leaving a gluing flap. I covered it with fabric or paper while still in the 'flat' stage. Then I glued the two ends of the circle together, and added a handle. The effect was a nice umbrella with very visible 'spines.'
Diana in Canada

You can make a little drawstring purse by cutting off a fingertip from one of those really thin leather gloves. I prefer the "pinky finger" because it's usually a bit smaller than the rest. The older the better for the gloves, as they are "broken in" and thinner. Check out the second hand shops and garage/estate sales for these.

Sew all around the top for the drawstring and pull tight. I used 2 strands of thread and pulled one of the strands in one direction and the other in the opposite direction so there is a handle on both sides of the purse so it hangs a little straighter but you don't need to use 2 strands if you don't want to.

Knot the ends so you have your handle(s) and you're done. You can embellish the purse with beads and trims if you want.

If you end your strings on the *inside* of the purse, then you can hide the knots.

I understand you can also dye leather to match the outfit but I've never tried that.

At a show recently I purchased two wonderful beaded purses with floral designs. The purses were apparently shaped from Fimo with the design painted on. Having examined them closely, I'm guessing that a single section of the flower was painted with glue and tiny no-hole beads in the appropriate color were poured on to fill that section. When it was dry, next flower part was done, then the leaf section, etc., and the background of the evening bag was solidly filled in with gold on one purse, black on the other. They were completed with jewelry findings to form the rim and clasp of the purse and tiny gold and silver chain for the handles.
Wanna in El Paso

I have made the cutest little purse out of two buttons.  Look for the kind that is shaped dome like with one flat side and one rounded side. There is some that look like brown leather ( I think they may be actual leather) with sort of a grit pattern on it-do you know the ones I'm talking about? Very popular for coat buttons etc.  Of course the trick is to find some that are small enough to be useable. Don't forget to check your thrift stores too.  Once you have two suitable buttons, take the 'stem' off with your wire cutter and glue the two together.  Now all you have to do is add a little finding for a clasp and attach a fine chain for the strap if you like. You could also cover the buttons with the fabric or material of your choice first before you glue them together. Looks great and you can make it to match your dolls dress

I have taken the fancy ribbon like trims that look like tapestry....JoAnn's Fabrics has many.....and I cut the piece according to the pattern. Some have perfect designs from which you can design your purse like an envelope with a pointed fold over flap. I have trimmed the edges on the side and around the edge of the flap with bunka trim to coordinate with a color in the trim.  I made these from various trims and even did some with pastel tulips on a white background using pastel bunka for the trim and added a loop at the top for the handle or purse strap.  At Christmas time there was a red, black and gold piece that made up very well. They also had a very fine narrow gold metallic ribbon that resembled metal chain. By using this for the 'strap' it looked like a chain for the hand bag.  I hope this is understandable. I will see if I have pictures of them.

Purse - Beaded
Guess what I found out how to do? Make incredibly tiny design beaded purses - EASY! I had gotten a wonderful clear glass marble (bead) purse from someone (sorry can't remember who <G>)....and I took it one step further! I took the regular 'shrinky dink', ink stamped a design on it, colored it in, shrunk it (mind you this is in a rectangle shape) and when cooled down lightly covered it with glue and sprinkled one layer of these clear tiny beads on it. Then repeated for edges and other side. The results was a tiny, flat, in scale beaded purse with wonderful designs in color!

Purse - Beaded
The directions to make the beaded purses are on Mab's DIY pages. Here is the shortcut

Purse using no hole beads
I have been using no hole beads for quite sometime to help accessorize my dolls and just love the effect. Something as simple as making a little fimo "blank" (purse shaped) coated with all gold no hole beads and a finding and some chain looks fab.


The Fall 1997 issue of Dolls in Miniature magazine (sold out) had instructions for a unique way to make faux beaded purses (and other beaded minis) If I remember correctly: She glued glitter to a piece of sewing thread, and shaped the thread into a design. When dry, she glued the thread to a purse. The result was a very realistic looking purse, with a lovely tiny "beaded" design.

My mom did a great beaded effect on a gown my painting the design on with fabric with acrylic and sprinkling on the no hole beads while the paint was still wet. It is the Julia costumed by Jan Doehring on my website
Stacy Hofman
I saw an article a while back on doing mini purses in a similar technique,  and they looked really cute. The trick was to find a fabric with a solid  background, and a small flower in the center, and cut out your purse from  this fabric, placing the flower in the center of the purse. The sample  picture had a red rose on a black background. Then I think the purse sides  were sewn or glued, right sides together, and turned to right side, and  lightly stuffed. Fabric is then coated with white glue, and clear no hole  beads applied over the entire surface. The print of the fabric shows thru the beads, but gives the appearance that the purse is made with tiny stitched  beads with a floral pattern. You have to remember to leave the top edges un-beaded, so that you have room to gather them together and attach jewelry  finding, etc. but they turn out real cute! Not really clear on the exact  instructions regarding assembly and the order of the steps, but the clear beads over a small print really look neat!
Cindy Howe

Victorian Beaded purse
Since dolls are now my 'job' my 'hobby' is rubber stamping! Well in the search for a tiny, realistic beaded purse (without going blind gluing on all those tiny no hole beads)...I found a GREAT print on the web, printed it out on the computer (tiny, authentic and IN SCALE). Next I cut out a rectangle around it in purse shape. Then I took that
wonderful double sided embossing or bead adhering tape from the rubber stamp store (which is pliable AND see through) and attached it to top of rectangle and then poured no hole GLASS (see through) beads over top of sticky tape. Then bend purse in half, glue together. Glue a brass finding or brass purse top on with tiny gold chain and WOW! It looks really great, without the eye stress of individual beading!

I've also done this in black no hole beads, with just a couple red beads in middle to simulate roses...then glue on a couple of black threads to bottom with black beads to simulate beaded fringe.

Purse - Clasp
Just take two small circles out of a dryer fabric sheet (it's very thin and almost see thru), the size of a test tube opening... cut one off just above the half way mark...spread one side of each with tacky glue and sprinkle with 1/2ml clear no hole beads... you may need to tap a few down into place...wait till they dry... now put glue around the inside edges (not across the top of either) just where the two meet. Slip an itty bitty piece of wax paper in the "pocket" so it doesn't glue shut. When about ½ dry turn over the "top flap" so that it makes the "opening flap" of the clutch... adorn with a tiny bit of a cut up finding that looks like a clasp! You may wish to put a tiny bit of glue all around the "outside edges" of the clutch... including the opening flap and sprinkle a few more beads for a more even finish. When completely dry insert a minute piece of "kleenex" (1ply tp works best) and perhaps a itty comb cut out of the plastic top to margarine containers. Ta da! Hey Dana your improvement sounds great and no need to glue the two sides together...although it would be difficult to carry your tissue's and comb in

Purse For Your Victorian Lady
I'm sure you've all seen the embroidered ribbon with the fringe on the bottom. The embroidered part is about ½" wide, with an additional ½" fringe. If yours is wider, that's ok too. That can make a very nice little purse and it is quite easy to put together. Start by cutting off two of the scallops to use for the purse. Fold that in half and glue closed at the side. (Turn one edge under and overlap and glue it to the other edge.) Then use a toothpick to dot glue inside across the

bottom edge (above the fringe). Next, stuff a tiny bit of cotton or lint into the purse to fluff it up a bit.  You can use a tiny chain or a matching colored piece of bunka for the handle. Cut a piece about 1-1/2 inch long and tie both ends in a knot. Cut off excess that extends beyond the knot and then dot the knot and a small area around the knot with glue. Push that glued portion deep inside the purse so the amount that extends outside is an attractive length for a purse (this type of purse often had a fairly long handle). Add more glue as necessary to secure the handle without gluing the top edge closed. Then pinch the purse closed so the glued handle can be

stuck to the inside of the purse, trying not to glue to top edge of the purse.  Then tightly gather across the top... pull the thread tight and tie off.  Use a mini purse clasp, jewelry finding or even a portion of a gold doily and fold it in half glue it over the gathered top portion of the purse. Next, trim across the fringe so the fringe is straight across and not scalloped.

Purses & shoes - how to accent
Take the little brass findings that are charms in your beauty shop or craft store, and gently push them into the fimo BEFORE you bake.  Then glue in a pointy edge rhinestone BEFORE you bake. To add dimension to painted shoes on dolls.......

Step 1 - paint shoe with light wash of acrylic paint
Step 2 - dust on LIGHT application of extra extra fine glitter let dry
Step 3 - paint another wash of acrylic paint
Step 4 - seal protect with either matt acrylic spray or fingernail polish depending on look desired. This gives a 3-D look with out the harshness of just glitter.

Lady Saddle Pattern
I have a lady saddle Pattern

Mini sequins:  for purses, trim, belts etc.  No Hole Beads. They come in all colors, They are glass and the brand I have is called: Glitter Beads,1/2  mm, made in Germany. I used them as decorations on my Sculpy cakes. Just spread a line of glue on your material and sprinkle the beads on. Don't try to pick them up as it is not possible. You can only sprinkle them on. Since they are colored glass they should not fade or tarnish.  Connie in Georgia

I used the holes punched out of big sequins as mini sequins. When you buy a bag of sequins look in the bottom of the bag there are tiny circles left over. They work great as sequins if you use tweezers to place them on the costume.  You can also punch them yourself if you happen to have a tiny hole punch also. I believe its 1/16" circle hole punch. 

The way I learned to make shoes was through Sue Atkinson's videotapes. She shows you step by step, and it looks so easy! Actually it is pretty easy. Sometimes when I don't want to make shoes, I paint them onto the feet! That's pretty effective too and you can get very carried away. Tip, if you make the shoes out of leather, use the very thinnest, finest leather you can find. I have had disasters using what I thought was thin enough leather. My dolls ended up looking like Minnie Mouse!
Cheryl C

I've never used this method on miniature dolls, just larger fashion dolls, but for one of my fairies, I dipped her feet in glue and then dipped those in glitter--voila, Fairy Boots! I've also done the glue thing and then dipped the feet in beads, but for the minis, you'd have to have very tiny beads...
Bobbi C.

It's neat (if you work in the greenware stage) to just paint those shoes on with one-steps! When they come out of the cone 6 firing, they are rough like leather. At that point I sand and clean the legs, but leave the shoes alone - rough. Add socks, and viola! Shoes!!! I ask folks when they ask for custom dolls what type of shoes do they want - Victorian boots, or modern shoes – and what color they want.... If they can't decide I paint them white and then when they get them they can paint the shoes with acrylic colors if they want....  Lately on the Victorian boots I've been firing the buttons silver or gold!
Georgina Hanford Simmons-Gagnon

Baked Shoes or Leather Shoes
This is good for either sculpted baked shoes or leather shoes that are constructed on a form.  I spread a thin layer of puff paint on the bottom of shoes. Then I hit it with a heat gun. It will puff up in an irregular pattern. Continue to use the heat until paint is dry. Then gently press sole on to a flat surface till sole evens out.  To make really old shoes, when spreading the paint keep it off of one small circular section at the front (toe area). When everything else puffs this will remain flat.  Then paint this indented area with a light beige/gray. Really looks worn.  Hope this is clear
~Lyn T

I make my dolls shoes out of thin leather or fabric. I've even made sneakers from light denim look cotton and elastic, go have a peak at my photopoint site under friends sharing mini's to see the sneakers on the dolls. Apply Tacky (gold) to the area you want as a shoe or boot onto the dolls. Then I take a small piece of leather or fabric which has been cut into a strip wider than the top of the foot and longer than the length of the foot. I then take one end of the material and run it down the back seam so that it is tight against the ankle and heel if a low shoe; the leg, ankle and heel if a boot.  Next I pull the fabric around the front of the foot and ankle and allow the width of the fabric to drape over the front of the toes. Continue around the
foot with the fabric until you have joined the back seam, trim so that ends butt together. Now comes the tricky part, coax the fabric or leather to lie flat to the dolls foot until there are no wrinkles by pulling carefully on the material around and under the bottom of the foot. Trim off excess material under the foot leaving enough material to glue to the underside of the dolls foot. Once dry, I use brown paper shopping bags for a sole, coated with two coats of clear nail polish shaped to fit the dolls foot. I then add shoe laces or small hole less beads as buttons, if a heel is required on the shoe, I cut one out of several thickness' of the brown paper bag and coat it with the clear polish and add it to the shoe. It also makes the sole seem real if you take a marking pen and darken the ridge of the sole and heel. Hope this is written so that it is understood, gosh it's ten times easier to do it than try to explain
Marilyn of Michigan

For the person asking about shoes, I posted recently about a book I found entitled The Art of Making Beautiful Fashion Doll Shoes. Authors are Timothy J. Alberts & M. Dalton King. It is a beautiful book just to look at. Besides that, it has wonderfully
illustrated steps for making shoes. Although the patterns are for "fashion doll" sized dolls, as miniaturists, most of you are adept at shrinking patterns. It gives instructions for making the shoe last (the thing on which all shoes are built) by dipping the doll's foot into some kind of molding compound. It also includes a "Visual Shoe Dictionary" with drawings of different shoes and the periods or years when they were in style.  As I said, even if I never make a pair of shoes, the book is wonderful to dream over. The book is published by Hobby House Press and is a 1999 release.
Tommie Cooper

I do a couple of different methods my favorite is to shape the shoes from fimo or like clays and bake the legs before putting the dolls together. You can paint them, add sparkles, flocking, bows, just anything. The other is with fabric. If you want the instructions for the fabric.
Ann Keller

I've been using some 3 D paint ,it makes the shoes look like they are textured, it's quite durable too I found and won't chip off while the doll is going through the rigors of being dressed-smile. I have used some veeeery thin sort of suede like material to cut a little sole for them .It's a light brown color and looks quite nice.  There is a lot that can be done with shoes, I have just started to play around with it .There is a wonderful little paperback book by Linda O'Keefe called 'SHOES’. It has many, many illustrations of different shoe styles in there for different periods.

Alice Zinn of Small Stuff has a marvelous little booklet complete with shoe and slipper patterns.   In fact, she has two of those booklets

I found this information posted to the 1 inch mini group. Those of you that were looking for information on making shoes might find this interesting.
Tom from Earth and Tree is selling these books I guess. I'll see if I can get more info on these books if anyone is interested. They seem very interesting.
Shoe It Yourself Vol 1
by Alice Zinn, 16 pages, patterns and instructions for many different types of footwear, along with special tips to make their construction easier and more fun. Makes bunny slippers, ladies and men’s slippers, canvas Chinese shoes, penny loafers, saddle shoes
and shoe box pattern
Shoe It Yourself Vol#2
by Alice Zinn 20 black & white pages with instructions and patterns to make high heeled clogs, tennis shoes, sandals, baby shoes, baby shoe box, leather boots and box for boots.
Open Sesamini
by Alice Zinn, 23 pages, patterns and instructions and tips for making one-twelfth scale
miniatures that do fulfill their purpose, they really open and close.  Create your own purse and its accessories, a wallet, attaché case and even a studio couch, which opens into a double bed.

Tennis Shoe Pattern
I used chambray material fitted and glued around the dolls foot, used a  brown paper bag that I coated with clear nail polish for the sole of the  shoe. Heavy blanket thread was used to make the laces, start at just above  the dolls toes and gluing the thread as you go, crisscross the thread until  you are at the top of the shoe, tie a small bow. To create the rubber sole  that tennis shoes have I cut two ribs off a flat piece of elastic and glued  it to the very edge of the shoe and the sole. Very easy!

Tiny Shoes
I would be glad to share how I make the tiny shoes with anyone interested. Cats Paw has many tiny brass items that work for faux buckles, pins and decorations. Write back if you want the item numbers I use. To make the silk ribbon parts I put Aleene's flexible  stretchable fabric glue and let it dry then cut whatever pieces I need, they won't ravel because of the glue. I use leather from old gloves or thin leather from Al Chandronait.

The best way that I have found to do stockings is to work in sections. I used a very fine black nylon mesh, (Dana carries it in her stocking kit) but really I think anything fine enough and stretchy will work. Using a pencil I draw a fine line down the middle on the back of the leg. Then I cut a rectangle of the fabric very straight( make sure it's plenty big so you won't come up short) and glue that next to the line I drew. Then I let dry. I did both pairs of legs at the same time so while one was drying I worked on the next one until I had all four then went back to the first one.  I find that if I work in small sections and let the glue dry well in between it lets me get a much nicer fit and I won't continually pull off parts of the stocking, trying to get it all glued at the same time.  Just work it all the way around the leg and foot pulling and stretching .Once you hit the back of the leg again apply a fine line of glue next to the glued down part of the stocking. Pull the fabric around and glue down butting up to that very nice straight line you drew. I try to not overlap anything but just have the two sides meet. Once dry use small embroidery scissors to trim the excess fabric.

I guess my favorite wings are those like in the movie John Travolta wore.... the white dove wings, which I guess would mean possibly purchasing a fake dove and cutting off wings... or shaping cardboard and gluing white feathers.

2nd favorite wings shaped in wire covered in sparkle netting. In real life Diana I did this many times for theatre stage for fairy god mothers I put lights in netting which were battery operated and the fairy godmothers could turn them on an off with a remote switch at their waist. Sometimes we had fairy godmothers who were a little forgetful and their hocus pocus didn't always work on first I had to come up with remote switch so they could turn on wings or lighted skirt when they wanted the hocus pocus to finally take.
Tatania **the good witch**

I think I would try to use wire and cover it with (stocking) I haven’t made one in mini but just did for daughter for Halloween we used white sheer stockings over pretty stiff shaped wire pulled it over it just like pulling them on a leg then tied them off and trimmed then we also sprayed the wings with that spray glitter really fine stuff in an aerosol can would love to see a picture of the doll done.

An EASY way to make angel wings is to use the wings from the white feather/flocking doves that people put on wreaths, Xmas trees, etc. around the holidays. Cut the legs off first (because the wire of the leg is connected to the wing) then carefully cut around the base of the wing being careful not to cut the wire that connected each one to a foot. You can now trim the ends so they join perfectly and use the wire to attach to the angel. A more labor-intensive method is to use these wings as a base and add more white feathers in rows. Interestingly, the Victorians were the ones to insist that angels and fairies have wings... they didn't believe in levitation I guess.

I think wings made from polymer can turn out just beautiful if they are done correctly. I love the wings that have many colors added with the translucent (so nice when backlit!) then they are rolled out and shaped like a butterfly's.
*Hugs from big ole Texas*

My choice for wings, of course...would be eggs, as that is what I do. They make lovely wings, either cut or sculpted. I realize not everyone would be doing that, but if I ever manage to come up with an honest to goodness, real sculpted fairy (it the face thing with me), she will have egg wings.  My Pavan from Dana is waiting for her egg fairy wings now. She will be very pretty, I think.

I've made wings from very sheer fabric that is stiffened and then embellished in various ways. I didn't use wire as a frame because I wanted a more airy and natural look.

I have made fairies for about 16 yrs and have used just about everything for wings. At first I used the butterflies that were made of netting stretched over wire. Then the white petals available in the bridal dept. of the craft stores (these are fabric stretched on wire that can be shaped). Moved on to silk that has been stiffened with "petal porcelain" and even did some silk dyeing for wings. Sometimes used wings from the white doves (fake) enhanced with more feathers and such. But I think my favorite wings are the cicada (locust) wings I use now. They are transparent with fine veining and come off of one very ugly bug! Husband is sent OUTSIDE with the tweezers and scissors to debug the wings.
Jill Castoral

actually using the bug BODIES for something). GROSS! These cicadas come from South America and are huge. The wings are about 4 inches long and the bugs a bit bigger with big eyes! GROSS again! But the wings are crystal clear with beautiful veining.  Can't believe they come on that bug!
Jill Castoral

I have used lace stiffened with clear glitter paint and let dry. I put it on a piece of plastic wrap to paint and left it there to dry. Turns out very pretty. Very dense or airy depending on the lace used. Some of the fancy lace that is in the bridal department would work very well cutting the design pieces apart and using the pointed ones for the bottom of the wings and rounded ones for the top. Like a butterfly.

Also you can make lacy wings with water dissolving backing for machine embroidery. Just stitch on it and then dissolve the paper. The paper is also good for stiffening fabric so pull off as much as possible and then rinse out the rest.

Lots of ideas for threads to use for this. Clear and iridescent would be the first ones that come to mind. Lots of beautiful rayon and poly embroidery threads for the sewing machine available and the color range is huge.
Take care, Charlean

There is a wonderful rubber stamp out with both sides of the wing. If you take sheer batiste, stamp on your design, put embossing ink on in a light glittery shade, and then cut out, the results are amazing! Sheer, pose able and printed on both sides! Visit your nearest rubber stamp store for the design.
Happy Creating!

I have used clear acetate page protectors, with veins drawn with color sharpies, and spray paint and glitter. If you reinforce the segment between the wings, you can glue on a Velcro tab.


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